Panama: Gateway to the World, Part 3

Panama City resembles Miami with its skyline, and unfortunately, there are some parallels with the real estate market as well. There is a rush to build luxury condominiums near downtown, and over a dozen are incomplete. These units are priced out of reach of all but a few rich Panamanians, and are intended for foreign retirees. I found most of them to be very expensive by Dallas standards. All real estate in the city has been bid up by speculators, so even a friend who is middle class cannot afford to purchase housing anywhere near his workplace. Since he does not choose to have a long commute, he continues to rent. However, the housing bubble seems to be bursting in the capital, so prices should start to drop soon.

The inner city holds about a half million people, but Panama City is squeezed by the Canal Zone, urban parks, and the Pacific Ocean, so it feels crowded. Although Panama has many new vehicles, it apparently lacks emission control enforcement, so air pollution was thick at times. In addition, the road infrastructure has not kept up with population growth, so there are serious traffic jams during rush hour. Many sidewalks were in poor repair or had cars blocking them due to the dearth of parking. I frequently had to dodge traffic because I was forced to walk in the street.

As the city is relatively small, walking is often a good option. I stayed in the safe and central El Cangrejo section so I was close to restaurants, bars, and casinos. Other neighborhoods like Casco Viejo and Curundú are unsafe for pedestrians at night. While some sections have problems with crime, most incidents are restricted to the poorer areas.

The easiest way to get around Panama City is to take cabs, which are affordable and plentiful. Rental cars are available, but between the traffic jams at rush hour and the aggressive drivers, you are better off just hailing a taxi. The capital does have a bus system of brightly colored old school buses called diablos rojos (red devils), but they expel a lot of sooty diesel exhaust and are often overcrowded and in poor mechanical condition.

You don’t have to worry about cab drivers taking an excessively long route as they don’t use meters. However, you will need to agree on a price for your trip before you get in the car. Expect to haggle, as drivers are under economic pressure from the rocketing gas prices. My taxis usually had to stop at a filling station during my trip as the drivers could only afford to add a couple gallons at a time.

While a bicycle might seem like a good transportation option for a compact, mostly flat city, unfortunately much of Panama City is not bicycle-friendly. The only place I saw a bicycle lane was on the Amador Causeway which connects three islands to the Pacific coast. While this is a beautiful area for tourism, most people would not commute there on a daily basis.

City services are also inadequate for the size of the capital. At night, I had to dodge overflowing bags and barrels of trash. The street near my hotel had a water line break that wasn’t fixed for over 48 hours, and that wasn’t the only water problem I noticed. Fortunately, there were no power outages so buildings stayed cool and lit.

Panama City may have some minor infrastructure problems, but it contains one of the engineering marvels of the last century, the Panama Canal. A visit to this country is not complete without viewing it. I visited the Miraflores Locks on the outskirts of the capital in order to see the Canal up close. There is a small museum adjacent to the locks that explains the history and mechanics of the Panama Canal, but the main attraction is watching ships pass through. I was fortunate that it was a clear day and many boats were lined up in the Pacific waiting to make the journey. The museum has an observation deck on the fourth floor and a guide to explain the process in both English and Spanish.

Pictures cannot do justice to the immense size and power of the ships. Crews on the deck of a gas tanker looked like ants, and the government plans to add a wider section to the Canal in order to accommodate larger freighters. What amazed me is that most of the infrastructure is nearly a century old but still in use, from the seven story lock gates to the support buildings and electric trains that guide the ships. Due to the fact that boats must wait for water levels to be raised, then lowered in the locks, it takes a full day to traverse the Canal. I didn’t go on a canal cruise, but I’ve heard that it’s a fascinating trip that allows you to see many exotic plants and animals.

As a US citizen, Panama seems very familiar due to the strong American influence. The pace of life is similar, and I can get all the products and services I’m accustomed to.

As an isthmus with a canal, Panama is a tiny country that is a gateway to the world. Its unique location allows it to be the center of global trade while benefiting from the goods produced in far flung locations. It also has managed to preserve much of its culture and heritage while receiving technology and infrastructure from the US presence. Outside the Canal Zone, large swaths of land have been protected from environmental damage by the indigenous peoples. Modern conveniences, delicious seafood and produce, and beautiful beaches at a discount make Panama a great place to visit.

Popularity: 18% [?]

Related posts:

1. Panama: Gateway to the World, Part 1
2. Panama: Gateway to the World, Part 2
3. The Land of Tango, Part 1
4. The Land of Tango, Part 2